Category Archives: Travels

April 27, 2015 · 7:45 am

Tiger Hunting in Bardia National Park

Photo courtesy of Elliot Pelling

Arriving in Nepal, we had no idea seeing a tiger was even a possibility and a good one at that. Whatever the reason for our lack of knowledge, we were pleasantly surprised to learn Nepal has a healthy and growing population of Royal Bengal Tigers.

Fast forward 25 days and a hellacious 15 hour overnight journey on a rickety local bus, we found ourselves at 4AM in muddy Ambasa, the gateway to Nepal’s Bardia National Park. Lucky for us, our last minute hotel booking (made from previously mentioned rickety local bus) turned out to be the best we found in Nepal. Mr. B’s Place took great care of us. We were especially grateful that his son was in Ambasa to pick us up and take us the remaining 15km so early that morning.

In our haste to reach India in time for Holi, we could only afford two days at the park and intended to make the most of our time by heading straight out on a safari that morning. Mother Nature had other plans.

As opening time for the park approached, a relentless rain flung itself onto the tin roof of our villa. Mr. B informed us that although he would profit off taking us into the park, he didn’t think a safari in any form would be in our best interest. There would be no tiger spotting in such heavy rain. Unhappily, we retreated to our beds for the day, cursing our luck.

Photo courtesy of Elliot Pelling

As the next day dawned, the sky lightened and the sun shone. Unfortunately, due to the constant overnight rain, the path was still too muddy to allow a jeep to pass. Consequently, we abandoned our intended jeep safari and, on Mr. B’s advice, planned a full day walking instead.

Mr. B claims that in the right season and with good weather, there is a 90% chance of spotting tigers in Bardia National Park. However, it wouldn’t be so easy for us. As soon as we stepped foot into the park, the thunder rumbled and we felt the first of thousands of rain drops. Fifteen minutes later, the relentless downpour returned.

We trudged on, covered by our ponchos, but still soaking wet and losing hope. We became even more disheartened when we realized the required river crossing would not be possible due to the high water level. Our guides rerouted us to what they called a “bridge.” In reality, it was four tree trunks wired together with a few planks thrown across to walk on. It tilted severely and was dangerously slick in the rain.

Photo courtesy of Elliot Pelling

At that point, we came very close to giving up. Our bags full of expensive camera equipment weighed on our minds as we contemplated crossing and perhaps falling into the raging river below. It was a lot to gamble for the very slim possibility that we would see a tiger. But, our stubbornness won out. After watching several other tourists crawl across on their hands and knees, we followed suit and successfully crossed the bridge.

As we neared the first area for spotting tigers, the rain stopped. An hour later, blue skies appeared and the sun made a grand appearance. We ate lunch and sat quietly for about three hours. No signs of a tiger.

Itchy for some signs of wildlife, we proceeded to the second area known for tiger sightings. This was the bank of a shallow river that runs through Bardia National Park.

Photo courtesy of Elliot Pelling

We concealed ourselves in the bushes and waited. We were shortly rewarded with the bark of a deer, which according to our guide is the single most accurate warning of a nearby tiger.

Within minutes, we were rewarded yet again for our perseverance. No, we didn’t see a tiger. We heard one. A loud, low rumble came from across the river. A tiger’s roar is an unusual sound outside of mating season, claimed our very excited guides. She wasn’t happy about something.

Intermittent tiger roars kept us on our toes from 2 until 5:30 at which point another guide pointed out the time. The park would close at sun down and we still had an hour walk back to the entrance. It was time to leave. The other guide began to gather his guests and headed for the exit trail. Our guide seemed to feel in his gut that leaving in that moment was the wrong decision. “Just five more minutes.” The tiger agreed with her first roar in the last hour.

Five minutes later, we still hadn’t seen our vocal friend. Dejected, we gathered our things for our long walk back.

I stood up to leave, but before I could make it to my feet, the guides were pointing behind me and had, in their excitement, forgone whispering.

“Tiger….Up!”

Disbelievingly, I turned around to see the majestic tiger half way across the river, far upstream, but unmistakable.

Too mesmerized to bother with my camera, I stared in awe, as she stopped, looked our way, studied us for a second, and then, with the flick of her tail, disappeared into the tall grass.

We had finally seen our tiger.

Photo courtesy of Elliot Pelling

Essential Information

To Reach Bardia National Park: Overnight buses from Kathmandu and Pokhara travelling to the Nepal/India border at Mahendranagar will drop you in Ambassa. The journey takes 12-15 hours. Reaching Bardia National Park from Chitwan National Park is also an option that will save some time but is a bit more complicated. You can read about this option here.

Entry Fee: 1000NPR per day plus tax. (Note that this is usually included in the cost of safaris)

Where to Stay: Mr. B’s Place offers comfortable rooms, delicious food, and a great guide service. Rooms cost just 500 or 900NPR. You can reach Mr. B at + 977- 974 800 4032 or through the website www.mrbsplacebardia.com.

Safari Costs: 65,000NPR for a full day walking safari for 2 people. 105,000NPR for a full day jeep safari for 2 people. Both prices include the park entry fee listed above. Contact Mr. B’s Place for the price of other types of safari (canoe, elephant, etc.) and multi-day packages.

2 Comments

Filed under Travels

Tagged as Adventure, Bardia National Park, Budget Travel, Mr. B's Place, Nepal, Off the beaten path, Off-beat Nepal, Safari, Tiger, travel, Wildlife, Wildlife Travel

March 4, 2015 · 9:00 am

8 Things to Do in Inle Lake on a Budget

Burma can be expensive. Any traveler will tell you that it is the most expensive Southeast Asian country to travel. But Inle Lake is one place to save some precious kyats. Here are 8 things to do in Inle Lake that won’t cost you an arm and a leg.

1. Boat Trip

Yes, everyone and their mother go on the boat trip at Inle Lake. Yes, you should go too. I know that touristy things are often unenjoyable, but at Inle Lake the boat trip cannot be avoided. And it’s cheap. Gather up some other people from your trek or your hotel to make the cost even less. It should be 15,000 kyat for a whole day for up to 5 people. 3,000 kyat for a day of fantastic scenery, relaxation, and shopping for overpriced souvenirs is a great deal in Burma.

2. Canoe Trip

Photo courtesy of Elliot Pelling

If you aren’t feeling up to the above mentioned boat trip or are looking for something different to do, a canoe trip is an authentic option. A local will take you through smaller canals on the west side of the lake using a dugout canoe. On the way, you can see two local villages and learn how to leg row like the fishermen. At 10,000 to 12,000 kyat for 3 hours, the canoe trip is decidedly more expensive than the boat trip. To be honest, we were not entirely thrilled with our canoe experience booked through Lion Travel. If you want to give this option a try, be sure to shop around.

3. Drink

Thankfully the prevalent Southeast Asian tourist drinking culture doesn’t yet exist in Burma. We did however encounter more of these drunk and disgraceful backpackers in Nyuang Shwe than elsewhere in the country. Perhaps this is caused by the ubiquitous happy hour deals throughout the city. Most places offer 700 kyat draft beer and 1500 kyat cocktails from 5 until 9. In addition to the availability of cheap alcohol, Nyuang Shwe boasts one of only two wineries in Myanmar. At Red Mountain Estate, only a half an hour cycle from town, tourists can taste four local wines for 2,000 kyat. Whatever your preferred drink, we found Nyuang Shwe to be the cheapest place in Myanmar to imbibe. If you do choose to consume alcohol, please do so responsibly.

4. Roller Skate

Photo courtesy of Elliot Pelling

One of the best and weirdest things we did while in Myanmar was roller skate. On the largest street of Nyuang Shwe, you can find an old-fashioned roller skating rink where local boys and girls come to show off their moves to bass heavy Western music. At only 1,000 kyat per hour including skate rental, it’s the most entertaining evening activity in the area. The rink is open from 10AM until 9PM every day of the week and the guy running the show can help you translate your Western sized shoes into Burmese sized skates.

5. Rent bicycles and explore

The most economical form of transportation in Myanmar is definitely the bicycle. For 1,000 to 1,500 kyat per day, you can explore using your own two wheels. A great day can be made cycling half way down the west side of the lake, stopping at the hot springs and then crossing the lake by boat with your bicycle (6,000 to 7,000 kyat). Finish the day by cycling up the east side of the lake, taking a break at Red Mountain Estate for a round of wine tasting.

6. Eat at the night market

The best meal we had in Nyuang Shwe was at the night market. The second stall from the street offers delicious potato curry with chapati that will only set you back 700 kyat. The owners are lovely and speak English. For the taste and value, the night market can’t be beat as a budget food option.

7. Get a massage

There are several reputable massage places around the town of Nyuang Shwe. Most of them cost only 3,000 kyat for a half hour massage and 6,000 kyat for a full hour. In a country where massages haven’t really taken off yet, relaxing with one near Inle Lake is your best option.

8. See a traditional puppet show

Photo courtesy of Elliot Pelling

Marionette theater was an important part of Burmese culture in years gone by. Unfortunately since colonialization, this form of entertainment has been dying a slow death. Now it has been relegated to a tourist trade, but fortunately for travelers, Inle Lake is home to one of the most passionate puppeteers still in existence. Aung works out of his small theater at the eastern end of the main road and charges only 3,000 kyat for an entertaining half hour show, a bargain compared with other shows in Bagan and Mandalay.

1 Comment

Filed under Travels

Tagged as activities, bicycle, boat, budget, Burma, cheap, drink, eat, Inle Lake, marionette theater, massage, Myanmar, night market, puppet show, roller skate, things to do, wine

March 2, 2015 · 9:00 am

Things I didn’t like about Myanmar

Burma was great. I loved its beauty, its people, and its ability to transport me back to a time of horse carts and fire stoves. But it wasn’t all peaches and cream. As with any country, there were aspects that I was definitely happy to leave behind. While I wouldn’t discourage anyone from visiting Myanmar because of these things, they were frequent causes of my curses and should be considered during the planning process of any trip to Myanmar.

1. Long distance bus journeys

At first this read simply long distance travel, but I’m not sure that is accurate. Train journeys in Myanmar are slow, hot, and dirty affairs, but they are nothing compared to the cramped quarters, loud TVs, and swerving drivers that define the often 10+ hour bus journeys. It makes for an overwhelming and uncomfortable experience, but if these were the only problems perhaps I could come to accept them as “just another Burmese experience.” But the journeys are also quite expensive by Southeast Asian standards (usually $10-$20) and the timetable is just about as bad as it gets. Most buses leave in the evening and dump passengers in their destinations at the rude hour of 4AM. On top of it all, Myanmar has begun to build new bus stations far outside of the towns travelers want to be in. This means another expensive taxi ride ($8-$10) into a town where hotels and restaurants have yet to wake up. Unfortunately, this absurdly painful bus travel is unavoidable for the budget traveler in Myanmar.

2. Beetle nut chewing men

Photo courtesy of Elliot Pelling

I have been to and lived in many countries where betel nut is more common than any other addiction, but I have never in my life seen it as widespread as it is in Burma. Nearly every Burmese man I met (and some women) had a wad of it stuck in their cheek. Even the monks were chewing the stuff. I find nothing as repulsive as someone trying to speak to me while red spit dribbles out of their open mouth and between their black teeth. It certainly didn’t make me want to get to know many Burmese people during my time there.

3. Foreigner prices

The sign outside Mandalay Palace. $10 for foreigners.

Foreigner prices are enough to drive any budget traveler crazy. I realize that as travelers we have more money than locals. I don’t know why that translates to paying more than locals do, but I accept that in many countries this is the case. The problem I had in Burma was that the difference between local and foreigner pricing was so obvious. At many restaurants and hotels, both the local and foreign prices were listed on menus and accommodation signs. Often foreigners paid double. At tourist attractions, locals were given free admission while foreigners were forced to pay $5-$15. This large difference in pricing often left me sore and really did lessen my enjoyment of Myanmar.

4. Cost of accommodation

Photo courtesy of Elliot Pelling

While I am ranting about the cost of travelling Burma, I should add the cost of accommodation as something I did not enjoy. Hotels in Myanmar are very expensive for what you get. For $15-$18 a night, you can sleep in a prison cell using a shared squat toilet. For $20-$25, you might get a private Western bathroom and breakfast but not much comfort past that. Only once you hit $30-$40 per night do you start to feel a little bit more accommodated with maybe a TV and some decorative pillows. These prices may seem low by Western standards, but they are enough to wreak havoc on a backpacker’s budget.

5. The dust

Photo courtesy of Elliot Pelling

Myanmar, especially northern Myanmar, is dusty. Everywhere one looks there is a pile of dust or a dust road or a house with a dust floor. It makes driving at night dangerous and keeping things clean impossible. It gets in every fingernail, camera lens, and piece of clothing. As hard as I tried, I never could get over the amount of dust in Myanmar and was happy to leave it behind at the end of my month there.

6. Lack of decent wifi

Blogging, posting on social media, and keeping in touch with friends and family was virtually impossible while in Myanmar. The wifi sucks. Unless you are blessed with an unusually good connection at your hotel or are up at 4AM when no one else wants to be online, it takes, by my estimation, an average of 5 minutes to load any webpage. That is if it is working at all. Locals have any number of excuses for the terrible speeds. I’ve heard everything from “It is raining in the north” to “The satellite is out of orbit” to “The government has turned it off.” Whatever the case, don’t go to Burma expecting to check your email or satisfy your social media addiction.

Have you been to Myanmar? Do you disagree with this list or have anything to add to it? I’d love to hear your stories in the comment section below.

3 Comments

Filed under Travels

Tagged as accommodation, beetle nut, Burma, bus, dirty, dust, journeys, Myanmar, prices, things I didn't like, wifi

February 28, 2015 · 9:02 am

Myanmar’s Best Bites

At first, I wasn’t sure I liked the food in Myanmar, but with time I learned how wonderful it actually is. Here are some of my favorite dishes from my time in the country.

1. Myanmar Tea

Not a “bite” but still a ubiquitous taste in Myanmar. I’m addicted and distraught at the thought that I won’t be able to find such a wonderful cup outside of Burma. Myanmar tea can be found anywhere and everywhere in this country. The beverage is a milky, sweet blend of what I believe is black tea and condensed milk. It is best enjoyed stooped over a knee-high table in a corner tea shop surrounded by chattering locals and soccer-showing TVs.

2. Pickled Mango

Photo courtesy of Elliot Pelling

I had never tried pickled mango before, but I am sure I will be having more during my travels through Myanmar and India. This dish was enjoyed at a sidewalk Indian restaurant at the corner of 26^th and 33^rd streets in Mandalay. It wasn’t the main dish, but a side that accompanied every meal. The pickled mango was so good we visited this restaurant multiple times just to eat the side!

3. Guacamole and Poppadum

Guacamole isn’t something I think of when I think Burma, but the guacamole at a vegetarian restaurant in Old Bagan was some of the best I’ve tasted. The lady who makes the stuff told me that she adds honey and chili powder to the avocados and tomatoes. Whatever she does, it is wonderful! And the poppadum instead of chips just seems to make perfect sense. To find this dish, look for the Old Bagan vegetarian restaurant recommended by Lonely Planet (I think it is called the Moon). The restaurant with the guacamole is actually across the way from the one that is recommended. It is well worth eating there, but we did find that the other dishes on the menu are not as good as the guacamole and the drinks are expensive!

4. Fermented Tea Leaf Salad

Photo courtesy of Elliot Pelling

One of the more interesting vegetarian dishes I tasted during my time in Myanmar, fermented tea leaf salad is available most places but preparation seems to vary. My favorite version was enjoyed in Hsipaw where the tea leaves were added to shredded raw cabbage and peanuts before being topped with vinaigrette. If you see this dish on a menu, definitely give it a try.

5. Indian Curries

From Mandalay to Yangon, some of the best food we ate was at Indian restaurants and food stalls. In particular, vegetarian curries stole the show. Inle Lake was home to a fantastic (and dirt cheap!) night market stand that served wonderful potato curry with chapatti for only 700 kyat ($0.70). We managed to eat 5 servings in one night! Yangon offered all-you-can-eat curry for only 1200 kyat (about $1.20). The tomato curry at this indulgent, 39^th street hole-in-the-wall left me desperate for a larger stomach so I could fit more in. It seemed we couldn’t go wrong with curry anywhere in the Myanmar.

Have you been to Myanmar? What was your favorite meal? I’d love to hear about your favorite Burmese dishes or other international dishes in the comments below.

2 Comments

Filed under Travels, Uncategorized

Tagged as Bagan, best food, Burma, Burmese, eating, food, foodie, guacamole, Indian, Inle Lake, mango, Myanmar, restaurants, Tea, tea leaf salad, travel, traveling

January 4, 2015 · 9:00 am

The Time We Crashed a Burmese Village Wedding

The happy couple. (Photo courtesy of Elliot Pelling)

Our trekking guide first noticed something was amiss as we approached the Pa O village school. The children were not inside the one room schoolhouse. Instead they were creating a circle of chaos in the school yard.

“Where is your teacher?” Nan San, our guide, inquired in the local language.

“She is not coming today. There is a wedding down the hill,” the children replied with wild smiles.

Nan San, the guide, grew visibly excited. Of course, we still had no idea what was happening. The interaction took place in the local language. Nan San explained as patiently as she could and our group quickly decided that an investigation into the wedding rituals of the Pa O tribe would be the perfect break from 6 hour trek.

As we approached the house where the wedding was held, the air was festive. Merry people wearing traditional tribal clothing loitered around the village. There were smiles all around.

Villagers in traditional clothing outside of the bride’s family home. (Photo courtesy of Elliot Pelling)

Nan San explained that instead of having a ceremony and a party, tribal people will have an all-day event in either the bride’s or groom’s family house. The ceremony merely consists of telling the eldest tribe member that these two people are now married. At this particular wedding, which was on a Wednesday, over 700 people were invited. From 8AM until 2AM these guests would come and go as they pleased to munch on the candy, beans, tea leaves, potato chips, and green tea and give their blessings to the newlyweds.

Before entering the wedding, we gave some money to the bride and groom at a booth set up outside the house for that purpose. No actual gifts are given.

Booth set up outside of the bride's family home for the collection of money. (Photo courtesy of Elliot Pelling)

Booth set up outside for the collection of money. (Photo courtesy of Elliot Pelling)

Inside the atmosphere was surprisingly less jovial than out. The bride and groom sat awkwardly next to each other in the corner while guests loitered about, enjoying the free snacks. I don’t think I saw the bride or groom smile or laugh the entire time we were there. Perhaps this is because intimacy doesn’t really exist in tribal villages until after marriage. It is quite common that a husband and wife never even hold hands before marriage.

Before we continued on our way to Inle Lake, we wished the bride and groom a happy marriage by tying their wrists with matching strings.

“Now their children will have pale faces,” laughed the village chief from his spot on the floor as we took our leave.

1 Comment

Filed under Travels

Tagged as Burma, hiking, Inle Lake, Kalaw Trek, Myanmar, Pa O, RTW, travel, traveling, village life, Village Wedding, Wedding

January 2, 2015 · 9:00 am

5 Tips for Conquering Leaving Anxiety

I’m not going to lie. Leaving is about the most difficult thing for me to do. When it comes time to travel and leave the comfort of my home, I am the worst person to be around. I cry. I scream. I make plans to cancel my trip. I spend hours talking with my mom, dad, and friends weighing the positives and negatives of going on a trip that only a week before I was planning with fervent desire. It’s enough to drive everyone around mad.

On the way to the airport, I’m even more insufferable. I ball my way through check-in and security and straight onto the plane. It’s miserable for me and for the security agents who regularly have to ask me if I am planning on hijacking a plane. Why else would I be so upset to go on vacation?

An awful picture of me just before leaving my mother at security. I was a mess!

An awful picture of me just before leaving on my latest trip. I was a mess!

I love to travel but I hate to leave.

And I know I am not the only one. It is common to feel leaving anxiety in varying degrees of severity. The lucky ones don’t feel it at all. The less blessed are completely inhibited by it and never actually get the chance to travel because of it. I suppose I fall somewhere in between.

Anyways, here are my five tips for conquering leaving anxiety. I try to use most of these whenever I am getting ready to travel. (Isn’t there a saying about never listening to your own advice?) If you have any other tips, I would love to hear them!

1. Realize that (most likely) nothing at home will change

For me, the cause of my anxiety is mostly that something big is going to occur while I am away. By big, I mean negative. Perhaps someone is going to die or my house is going to burn down or my dog is going to get sick. These things probably aren’t going to happen. Making your brain realize this is the biggest step to getting past the idea that your world is going to fall apart when you leave. You will most likely be returning to a very familiar place after your travels or time abroad is finished.

2. Plan something exciting in the first couple of vacation days

It helps to have something fantastically exciting planned for your first couple of days away from home. Starting with a mediocre experience will only lessen your desire to leave. For example, you may want to plan a day at Disney World for your first day in Florida or book a hot air balloon trip for your first day in Burma. That way you have something to look forward to and keep your mind from thinking you shouldn’t go.

3. Make a plan with those at home about when and how often you will talk

Depending on who you are, it may be a good idea to stay connected or you may need to leave those at home behind for a while. I fall into the latter category. If I am going to get used to traveling, I need to be without reminders from home. So, I usually wait 2-3 weeks before I skype with my parents. For others, it may be more comforting to talk to loved ones immediately upon reaching the destination. Whatever the case may be, it is a good idea to establish this schedule before leaving home. It will give you the ability to schedule thoughts about and communications from those you have left behind.

4. Have an exit plan (even if you never use it)

If you are like me, I frequently have the desire to cancel my trip just before I leave. Those around me have found it useful to suggest alternatives. For example, I recently left on a nine month around-the-world trip. I was miserable when it came time to leave, so my very practical mother suggested that I should just go and after one month I could reassess whether or not I want to go home. I had already bought the ticket to Asia anyways, she argued. Of course she knew that when the month was up, I certainly would have no desire to go home. But, it helped me get on the plane when I needed to. If you are stressed about leaving on vacation, give yourself an out, a plan B, for after the trip has begun. Most likely by the time you have to use plan B, you won’t need it anymore.

5. Write

This blog actually started as a reaction to my leaving anxiety. Writing helps me to feel connected to those at home while still living my life abroad. If writing a blog isn’t for you, perhaps keeping a journal or writing letters to yourself or others will help you to visualize your fears and as a result, minimize them.

Have any of these tips helped you with your leaving anxiety? Do you have other tips to add to this list? I would love to hear from you in the comments below.

My 14 Best Travel Moments of 2014

2014 was beyond amazing. It was overfilled with so much love and friendship. I am especially grateful for the travel I have been able to share with loved ones this year.

Limiting my best travel moments to 14 has been extremely difficult. There are so many great experiences that didn’t make this list. Thanks to everyone who was a part of my 2014. You (my friends, readers, and family) made it one awesome year!

1. Getting stuck at home during the worst snow storm in 20 years

Yes, being stuck at home was the first great travel moment of 2014. I had travelled home from Taiwan for the holidays. When it came time to return to Taiwan, of course I didn’t want to leave. Mother Nature must have known this because on the day I was supposed to get on the plane, she delivered the worst snow storm in 20 years. The plane still took off (6 hours late), but there was no way for me to get to the airport from my Indiana home. The county had declared a state of emergency, making it illegal to be on the roads. So, I got to stay and enjoy my friends and family for an extra week!

I got to spend some extra time with this cute pup!

2. Learning how to scuba dive in the Philippines

It’s quite embarrassing, but one of my biggest fears is fish. Even though I love to be in and around the water, I cannot be near fish. I made significant strides to conquer this fear when I became a certified scuba diver this year. (Go me!) Puerto Galera in the Philippines offered a safe environment for me to learn how to dive and confront my feelings about fish. I’m definitely a scuba diving convert now. I love it!

My open water classmates and I along with our instructor Hue.

3. Finding wind lion gods of Kinmen, Taiwan

After moving to Taiwan, I was fascinated with visiting the offshore islands. I finally got my chance during a three day weekend early this year. We jetted off to Kinmen (pronounced Jin-men) to find out a little bit more about the history of Taiwan and its conflict with China. The island is a fascinating reminder of the tension between the two countries. It was the frontline during the armed conflict. On top of all of the history, Kinmen is home to approximately 80 wind lion gods. These statues, which are scattered around the island, block evil spirits from entering houses and places of worship. Finding them all is a great game and good motivation to see the entire island!

One of 80 or so Wind Lion Gods in Kinmen. Each one is individual in appearance. I think this one looks like a chipmunk!

4.1 Discovering Imma

This year, we happened across one of my favorite restaurants in the whole entire world. Yup, it’s that good. Imma Bakery and Café in Tainan, Taiwan serves up beautiful Mediterranean food. The two Israeli owners are entertaining and extremely hospitable. They will tell you what you want to eat and they are always spot on with their recommendations. If you are in Taiwan, you owe it to yourself to get to Imma as soon as possible.

Yummy Vegetarian Stuffed Pepper!

4.2 Discovering Fourplay

Another culinary delight and therefore sharing the number 4 spot with Imma, Fourplay in Taipei, Taiwan was an equally exciting discovery. You can eat here, but the stars of the show are the cocktails. All you have to tell the bartender is what kind of things you like and he will mix up a personalized cocktail just for you. Some of our favorites have been created around suggestions such as Mango, Betel Nut, and Snickers.

The drinks from our first visit to Fourplay. Clockwise from top left: Betel Nut, Peanut Butter, and Marijuana Shots.

5. Scuba Diving with 30m visibility in Lanyu, Taiwan

In case you missed it, I love scuba diving. But I have to admit that I wasn’t looking forward to diving in Taiwan. I had heard that it was subpar compared to elsewhere in Asia. Whoever told me that was dead wrong. Diving in Lanyu was amazing. Our first dive was to 30m but as soon as we jumped in the water, we could see the sunken tanker 30 meters below us. The setting and visibility were unreal. I’d definitely recommend checking out Lanyu to any diver in Taiwan.

That’s me in the bow of the sunken cargo ship.

6. Finding natural hot springs in Lalashan

Lalashan is a special place for both E and I. One of my favorite memories from our many visits is finding the natural hot springs, called Xin Xing. To reach these hot springs, we first had to find the appropriate mile marker and then hike down the mountain for forty minutes. The hike was rewarded with a nearly deserted hot spring waterfall. The hot water falls from the cliffs above and mixes with the cool river water to create pools of various temperatures. It is a tiny hidden corner or the world that we were really happy to find.

The water from this fall was burning hot making this a very uncomfortable spot to sit.

7. Hiking Taroko Gorge with family

I was surprised and overjoyed when my cousin, his wife, and daughter came to visit us near the end of our stay in Taiwan. We had so much fun exploring the Taiwan’s East Coast with them. All of it was wonderful, but my favorite place was Taroko Gorge where we hiked among the cliffs to fantastically powerful waterfalls and gorgeous views. It’s definitely a week I will never forget.

Kevin, Joan, Aaliyah, and I in just one scenic part of Taroko National Park.

8. Exploring Tokyo Disney

I’m on a mission to visit every Disney theme park in the world. Tokyo’s two parks were crossed off this year, leaving me with only Disney Paris left on the list (until Shanghai opens next year). E and I had a blast exploring Tokyo Disney for two days. I especially loved the ingenuity of DisneySea. It was unique in a series of parks that often are a bit boring in their similarities. I would go back in an instant!

This is our third Disney castle photo together. (E says we’re lame.)

9. Drinking Namaste at the Dogfish Head brewery

Delaware is a state that I admit was pretty low on my bucket list. However, I am thrilled to have had the opportunity to visit my friend from Taiwan while she was home in Delaware this summer. The beaches, restaurants, and scenery were wonderful, but the highlight of my trip was visiting the Dogfish Head brewery. Of course, I am a sucker for alcohol tours and the free samples always make for a good time. The Dogfish Head tour was exemplary. I don’t think I tasted a beer I didn’t like. My favorite was for sure Namaste, a witbier. I recommend a stop at the brewery for anyone in Delaware.

Enjoying our free samples!

10. Dragging my family to the Jack Daniels Distillery

It’s not that my dad, stepmom, and stepsister don’t drink, it’s that they don’t drink whiskey. But when I heard that we would be taking a trip to Nashville, TN, I insisted we spend a day exploring the countryside and making our way to the Jack Daniels Distillery in Lynchburg, TN. Thankfully, they were good sports, tasting most of the whiskeys on our tour, and giving me one of my best travel days in 2014.

Here they are, trying to look like they are enjoying their whiskey.

11. Ziplining for the first time in Brown County, IN

It wasn’t my idea to go ziplining on our annual camping trip. It was my cousin Ashley’s, but I am sure glad she had the idea. Ziplining through the rolling hills and fall colors that define the stunningly beautiful Brown Country, Indiana was the perfect introduction to the adventure activity.

Wheeeeee!

12. Begging our way onto a plane we should have missed

I’m not sure if this should be on a list of the best travel moments or the worst. After fighting traffic for three and a half hours, my best friend and I arrived at O’Hare International Airport only 30 minutes before our flight to New Orleans was scheduled to leave. I was sure we weren’t going to make it on the plane and after sprinting through check-in and security, the gate agent told us that they had already closed the flight. We couldn’t board the plane. Cue the waterworks. Luckily, the gate agent didn’t want to listen to our sobs and decided to take a risk, letting us onto the plane even though it was closed in the computers. We were so overjoyed and shaky from the stress of the morning that we promptly ordered an overpriced Baileys and coffee even though it was 8AM. I will forever be indebted to that gate agent. (As a side note, the trip to New Orleans was worth every bit of this chaos. I struggled to pick any one particular moment from the trip for this list.)

Unfortunately, there are no appropriate pictures of us on the plane. So, here is a picture of the Candlelight Lounge instead. Great music!

13. Laughing through Bodyfly Yoga in Bangkok

I was so happy to see a familiar face in Bangkok, my friend Hayley from Taiwan. And lucky for me, she was happy to go along with my plan to try a Bodyfly yoga class. This class involves completing yoga poses while hanging from a “hammock” attached to the ceiling. It was a blast and even if I didn’t get most of the poses correct, I got a workout from the hour of laughing.

Namaste!

14. Seeing the sunrise over Bagan

Bagan was a place I had dreamed of visiting ever since I studied with two Burmese students during my last semester of university. It definitely lived up to their hype. The most magical time to experience the ancient city is at sunrise. We got up to see the sun come up over Bagan three times during our short visit. Each time was as beautiful as the last.

Bagan is known as ‘the sea of temples.’

What were some of your travel highlights from the past year? Let me know in the comments below and be sure to follow along with Every Mile on our social media pages to see what we are up to in 2015.

Psst…Check out this post on the Weekend Wanderlust link-up.

5 Comments

Filed under Getaways, Indiana, Taiwan, Travels, Uncategorized, USA

Tagged as 2014, Bagan, Best of 2014, Brown County, Delaware, Disney, Favorite Moments, Indiana, Kinmen, Lalashan, Lanyu, Myanmar, Nashville, New Orleans, RTW, Tainan, Taipei, Taiwan, Taroko Gorge, Tokyo, travel, USA

December 28, 2014 · 9:00 am

Hsipaw 3D/2N Trek

“Let’s regret it later.” Act now, feel the tender bruise of failure when it is finished. This small phrase has become a sort of motto for our trip through Myanmar.

Our latest dilemma began some time before we reached Hsipaw, the jumping off point for treks around the Shan State. We didn’t know if we should even bother attempting to reach the city, a grueling 7 turned 12.5 hour train journey from Mandalay. Previous to entering Myanmar, we hadn’t even heard of this place or trekking opportunity, knowing only of the more famous and touristy option of trekking from Kalaw to Inle Lake.

One “Let’s regret it later,” and we were on the train. After a hellacious four hour wait beginning at 4 AM and a long train journey later, yet again we were faced with a decision.

We contemplated whether we should attempt a 2 night trek or stick with the seemingly more popular 1 night trek offered by our guesthouse, Lily’s the Home. Initially, we decided that the price difference ($25 for the 1 night vs. $60 for the 2 night) and the description of the second night did not make us feel like the added effort was worth it. But, after sleeping on it and another “Let’s regret it later,” we made the last minute decision to join the 3D/2N trek.

The Trek

Six of us, two Germans, two Polish ladies, E, and I left the guesthouse in the middle of a cloud. It was rainy and foggy for the first two hours as we slowly traversed farmers’ fields and climbed a few hundred meters. Our amazing, altruistic, fun, knowledgeable, 20-year-old, fluent-in-four-languages guide, Aung San patiently answered our questions about every animal and plant we came across. In case you didn’t already get the idea, Aung San was the best guide we have come across in Myanmar. He knew all the names of the huge variety of plants we saw in all four of his languages, even if we didn’t know it in English, our first language.

Photo courtesy of Elliot Pelling

One hour flat, three hours up. That’s how Aung San described our first morning hiking. But, we took so many breaks, our three hours up turned into four. At about 1:30, we arrived in Pankam Village, the first of four Palau villages we would visit. Here we enjoyed a delicious lunch. Did I mention that all the meals of the trip are vegetarian? It was heavenly not to worry about meat for three days!

To spare you from having to read my praises of the food for the next several hours, I will simply list my favorite dishes. These include fermented tea leaf salad, fried green papaya, yellow pumpkin French fries, stir-fried chayote squash, and lentil crisps among others. Hopefully it suffices to say that each one was a small bowl of vegetarian bliss.

While most treks from Hsipaw stop in Pankam Village for the evening, we pushed on for another two hours through mountainous tea fields until we reached Htansant Village. This village happens to be Aung San’s hometown. We were welcomed into his childhood home by his mother, father, sister, and brother-in-law. The six of us would overnight there on mats covered by heavy blankets in tiny second floor rooms after a delicious meal prepared by his mother and sister.

As a side note, the accommodations on the trek are very basic. They do not have running water (and therefore showers) or Western toilets. We were shown to the communal town spigot to wash our faces and hands, but needless to say, we smelled terrible at the end of three hot days.

The second day of the trek began bright and early with another delicious breakfast from Aung San’s mother. By 8AM, we were off on our 25km mission. The second day would take us past rice and tea fields, down the side of one mountain, quickly up the side of another, past rows of horses hauling dried corn to town, and into the dark for an hour before we reached the village of Khun Kaw where we would fill our bellies and rest our heads for the night.

The village shop where we overnighted was significantly less welcoming than Aung San’s house, but it still had its perks. While there was no running water and a pretty rank outhouse, the family did have a satellite dish and a flat screen TV which showed Premier League football throughout the evening. E was one happy boy.

On the third morning, we awoke to a village shop full of horses and sling-shot wielding boys. It was Sunday in the village, a day of half-rest. No rest for the weary though. At 7, we began the 23km walk back to Kyaukmae where we would catch a bus to Hsipaw. I have to say that this day was by far the least interesting. The last four hours or so took us on a long, boring, flat, sweltering, and dusty road. It was a relief to see a tuk-tuk waiting for us just on the outskirts of town. We were finished!

I just love this colorful grasshopper! (Photo courtesy of Elliot Pelling)

Regret it later?

No, I certainly do not regret our decision to hike for three days.

With that said, I am not sure we gained anything on the second and third day that we didn’t see on the first. Certainly the second day took us further into nature and away from other tourists, but the second night’s guest house was not overly accommodating.

Overall, I would struggle to recommend the three day trek over the two day trek for anyone except those interested only in the trekking itself. Do the three day trek if you like to walk through forests and climb mountains. Do the two day trek if you are more interested in the villages.

Overview

Day 1

Hsipaw → Pankam Village → Htansant Village
400m → 1300m
8:00AM → 5:00PM
18km

Day 2

Htansant Village → Man-Lhoy Village → Khun Kaw Village
1300m → 600m → 1000m
8:00AM → 6:30PM
25km

Day 3

Kun Kaw Village → Kyaukmae → Hsipaw
1000m → 400m
7:00AM → 3:30PM
23km

Packing List

Lily the Home Guesthouse does not provide guests with a list of needed items. Here are my suggestions:

Flashlight
Flip Flops
Light clothes to hike in
Heavy clothes to sleep in
Good walking shoes
Toilet Paper
Sunscreen
Bug Spray
Hat or Umbrella (That sun is hot!)

6 Comments

Filed under Travels

Tagged as 3D/2N Trek, Burma, Hsipaw, Hsipaw Trek, Lily the Home Trek, Myanmar, nature, Shan State, travel, Trekking

October 11, 2014 · 9:00 am

OMG! A Liebster Award!

“Oh my gosh, Mom. I’ve just won a Liebster Award.”

“What’s a Lieb…what did you call it?”

“Uhhh. I don’t know really.”

Fifteen minutes and two Google searches later, this is what I came up with:

The Liebster Award is an award given by bloggers, who already have the award, to other bloggers. It is meant to help new bloggers build a larger community.

Of course, there are some rules to this game. Namely:

Thank the blogger who nominated you with a link back to his/her blog
Answer the 11 questions asked by the nominator
Nominate 5 – 11 bloggers with under 500 followers
Create 11 questions for the nominees
Display the Liebster Award logo on your page
List these 6 rules on your post

Thank the blogger who nominated you

A big thank you to And Miles 2 Go B4 I Sleep… for nominating Every Mile a Memory. My blog is very new so I appreciate the publicity you have given me. And Miles 2 Go B4 I Sleep… is a fantastic travel resource. It has definitely given me lots to think about for my upcoming trip to India. The couple who writes the blog are obviously passionate travelers and fantastic travel planners. Check it out to see some of their inspiring photos!

Answer the 11 questions asked by the nominator

What inspired you to travel and come up with the idea of travel blogging?

Everything from my wanderlust bitten family to a really great German potato salad have inspired me to travel over the years. I suppose most importantly, three and a half years ago a series of unfortunate events led me to buy a tickets to Asia for a long term solo trip. These unfortunate events included the end of a long term relationship and the loss of a dream job over an immature mistake. While those things were heartbreaking at the time, I have never been happier that such awful things happened.

My inspiration for travel blogging came straight from my friends and family. They wanted to hear all of the stories, but I quickly grew tired of repeating them over a patchy Skype connection. So, I decided to write them down for everyone to see. Now my blog is finally in the transition from travelogue to travel blog as I can provide information about more and more destinations.

What is the most favorite place that you have visited?

This is a tough one. I’ve been to a lot of wonderful places, but my favorite has to be Luang Prabang, Laos. I love the beauty of the two rivers coming together, the Buddhist culture, and the slower pace of this city. It also helps that I went with and met wonderful people in this romantic city.

Tell us more about your best trip.

Although the trip in which I visited Laos was my first long term and solo trip, I am not sure if it was my favorite. I have learned a lot since those halcyon days of “going with the flow.”

A few years ago, E (my boyfriend) and I took a road trip to Kentucky. We saw Mammoth cave and discovered the Bourbon Trail. It was carefree and adventurous. It was also hilarious to see my English boyfriend interact with the backwardness that somewhat defines Midwestern and Southern America. I’m not sure that this trip would be my best but it sticks out in my mind as one of the happiest.

Which country tops your bucket list to visit? Why?

Also another tough but excellent question. My answer is not so much a country, but a state: Alaska. Ever since my cousin competed in the Iditarod a decade ago, I have yearned to visit the Last Frontier.

When do you like to visit places – when it is less crowded or fully crowded?

Is there such a thing as a happy medium? If I have to pick one or the other, I would say fully crowded. I love the buzz of a lively place. That doesn’t mean that I love fighting the crowds to get a good bite or a beautiful view. But, I don’t want to be alone in a hostel either.

What would be your tip/recommendation for anyone visiting your hometown?

I’m from a small Indiana town just outside of Chicago that very few people have ever heard of, but I think it is one of the most beautiful places in the world. Chesterton, IN is an ideal place to stay if you want to experience the best the region has to offer. You have access to Chicago via the South Shore train. You are also only half an hour from Michigan which offers world class beaches and wineries. That’s not to say Chesterton doesn’t have enough to fill your time. My number one tip would be to explore all the great things Indiana Dunes State Park has to offer. (Hint: There’s a lot more to do than hike and go to the beach.)

Photo courtesy of Elliot Pelling

What is your best or favorite travel tip to fellow travelers?

My favorite thing to tell people to do while traveling is to cook. Not only does cooking save money over eating out, but it forces you to visit the local grocery store or market. A lot can be learned about a place through the foods it produces and the products it imports. The first thing I do whenever I visit a new place is head straight to where the locals shop.

Do you blog while traveling or when you get back home after your trip?

Because I have been travelling for the better part of the last three years, I often am forced to blog while traveling. With that said, I fail to blog regularly while traveling quickly between cities and tend to blog more often when I am stationed in one spot for a while.

What is your favorite mode of travel ?

Trains! I love soaring along the countryside on rails. It’s much more solitary and peaceful than traveling on a busy highway and more relaxing than air travel with all its security headaches. There is nothing better than a window seat while weaving through snow-capped Alps on a Eurail train.

Name 3 favorite songs you like to listen while traveling.

I freely admit I have terrible taste in music. Here are my 3 favorites anyways:

Dixie Chicks – Wide Open Spaces
John Denver – Rocky Mountain High or Looking for Space (tie)
The Eagles – Hotel California

What is the weirdest food you have eaten so far during your travel?

As a vegetarian, I don’t get to try many adventurous foods. I’ve watched as E has eaten tarantulas, pig lips, and duck beak. All of them looked completely disgusting to me, but he claims not all of them are so bad.

I guess the weirdest food I have had the pleasure of eating is stinky tofu, a popular East Asian dish of fermented tofu. I have to say that the taste certainly is not as bad as the smell, but it wasn’t something I would order regularly.

Nominate 5 bloggers

Congrats on the nominations! Your blogs are awesome.

Ask 11 questions for the nominees to answer

Where were you when you started blogging and what inspired the name of your blog?
Are you an itinerary planner or “fly by the seat of your pants” traveler?
What are 3 of the books that have inspired your travels?
What is your favorite travel quote?
What are five activities on your travel bucket list?
When did you fall in love with traveling?
What is the best meal you have ever eaten? Where did you eat it?
Where are you planning to go next?
What is your favorite travel souvenir?
What do you miss most about home when you travel?
What is the one thing/travel gadget you cannot travel without?

I can’t wait to read your answers! Happy Blogging!

6 Comments

Filed under Travels

Tagged as Awards, blogging, eating, favorites, Inspiration, Kentucky, Laos, Liebster Award, music, Nominations, stinky tofu, traveling, travelling

Image

5 Ways You Can Help Save the Orangutans

Palm oil and its connection to the endangerment of diversity is a subject of increasing significance and one that long been important to me. I was exuberant when this article about Halloween candy and its link to orangutans popped up on my Facebook news feed a week and a half ago. Since then I have sporadically seen articles breach the subject of palm oil. While I don’t pretend to be an expert on the topic, I have witnessed the devastation first hand. It’s about time mainstream media begins to discuss palm oil and its tragic effects on some of the most diverse areas in the world.

The History

Since the 1990’s production of palm oil has skyrocketed. It is now used in nearly 50 per cent of all packaged products. In the last 10 years, import of palm oil has increased tenfold in the United States alone. The origin of the oil is mostly in rainforest rich nations such as Malaysia and Indonesia.

You might wonder why it has become so popular. Palm oil is trans-fat free. Trans-fat is required to be labeled on products sold in the US and many other countries. Soon trans-fat may even be banned in the United States. So, companies have sought out palm oil as a substitute for other oils containing trans-fat. Palm oil makes their product appear healthier.

To make matters worse, many experts have called palm oil the solution to the American health crisis. Dr. Oz even lauded the oil as having the ability to stop the signs of aging.

The Downside (a pretty mild title for what you are about to read)

Photo courtesy of Elliot Pelling

• Production of palm oil has expanded too rapidly to be sustainable. Palm oil plantations have caused the terrifyingly expansive destruction of rainforests in Malaysia and Indonesia, where 90% of palm oil is produced. According the Rainforest Action Network’s Fact Sheet, palm oil plantations currently cover a total of 16 million acres. This is comparable to the size of West Virginia. By 2020, the Indonesia government plans to add an additional 44 million more acres (the size of Missouri).

• The destruction of rainforests is synonymous with the destruction of habitat for many endangered species. At present, the Sumatran rhinoceros, tigers, orangutans, and the Asian elephant are seeing the effects of deforestation. In fact, 80% of orangutan habitat has been lost due to growing demand for palm oil. (Note that while these are the most critically endangered species that have been affected, a wide range of animals have suffered a population decrease.)

• Animals are not the only group to rely on pre-palm oil plantation land. Indonesia and Malaysia are full of indigenous groups that need natural forests for their livelihoods. As if stripping people of their livelihoods isn’t bad enough, conflicts between these indigenous groups and palm oil corporations are common. In far too many cases, corporations resort to violence and murder in order to gain control of land.

• Tragically, many palm oil plantations rely on children to produce their product. Child labor by itself is reprehensible, but too often, these are cases of forced labor. Modern day slavery has been documented frequently in palm oil plantations across Malaysia.

• Palm oil production has also caused the rapid destruction of peatlands, a natural sequester of carbon, in Indonesia. As a result of the carbon released by the damage to this massive area, Indonesia has become the third largest creator of greenhouse gases in the world, behind only the United States and China.

• Finally, closer to home, the health benefits of palm oil may be exaggerated. While palm oil is trans-fat free, it contains a significant amount of saturated fat and has been shown to lead to higher cholesterol than other oils. To read more about this, check out this informative article from the SFGate.

The destruction of animal habitat, the violations of human rights, and the negative effect on global warming caused by palm oil production add up to a losing formula. In no way is palm oil worth the tragedies it causes.

However, ending our dependence on palm oil may be harder than we think. Palm oil is used in a large number of packaged foods and is confusingly labeled on many of those products making it hard to avoid. So how can you help?

5 Ways to Make a Difference

1. Buy palm oil free candy
For your next get together or that inevitable sweet tooth, be sure to purchase candy made without palm oil. At the very least, buy candy made using certified sustainable palm oil (although whether this is as destructive or not remains to be seen). To help in this endeavor, El Paso Zoo has created this useful list documenting which candies are safe to buy and which are not.

2. Download an app
Palm oil can morph into more than 12 different names on ingredient labels. Even for the best memories, avoiding palm oil containing products is near impossible. To make our lives easier, El Paso Zoo has done it again with an app called the Palm Oil Guide & Scanner. It allows consumers to determine if a product includes palm oil by scanning the product’s bar code. The app is free for download on Android and Apple iOS.

3. Sign a petition
Be a part of the Rainforest Action Network’s petition to end our dependence on palm oil by uploading a picture of your palm to their website. The organization wants to collect 60,600 photos of palms, one for every orangutan left in the wild. They plan to forward these photos as an anti-palm oil protest to the Snack Food 20 (the most popular snack food corporations).

4. Educate yourself
Read a book or watch a film about the palm oil crisis and its effects on orangutans. Many of the profits from these sources of information go directly to the protection of orangutans or orangutan rehabilitation centers. Say No To Palm Oil has put together a fantastic list of materials with which you can learn more about this catastrophic issue.

5. Write a letter
Let those in power know about your concern. You can write letters to companies in order to discourage use of palm oil. You can also write to your local politicians to encourage mandatory labeling of palm oil. On a more positive note, you can even write to those companies not using palm oil in order to thank them. The Orangutan Project has put together a great letter writing kit complete with sample letters. Some of the material is specific to Australia, but can be easily adapted to other countries or legislatures. The kit is available for download on The Orangutan Project’s website.

Let’s do the right thing and protect our world for those generations yet to come.

6 Comments

November 9, 2013 · 7:37 am

Category Archives: Travels

Thank the blogger who nominated you

Answer the 11 questions asked by the nominator

Nominate 5 bloggers

Ask 11 questions for the nominees to answer

Categories